Back to Spain and Yet Another UNESCO World Heritage Site

Tacky modern statue at Cruise Ship Terminal in La Coruna prove that the Jews were really expelled from Spain long ago 

En route Santiago de Compostela: we do enjoy our train rides, especially clean trains with nice scenery.

Modern branch route Spanish train hit speed in excess of 100 mph. Video displays are showing the current speed is 155 kilometers per hour

Santiago de Compostela railway station

Note scallop shell on this pilgrim's backpack. The shell is a symbol of the pilgrimage route.

Lovely UNESCO World Heritage Site old town Santiago de Compostela

Shrine of St. James the Great with every day incense burner

Suspension system for the Butafumeiro 

Scallop shells mark the pilgrimage route as well as adorn the pilgrims

Lovely Galician countryside from high speed train

La Coruna high rent district along the waterfront is known for its large windows

La Coruna city offices. Why are European town halls so imposing? 

Tea time snack on our balcony

Barbara studying up for the next port of Bilbao

Friday - 9 May 2014 - La Coruna, Spain

We have never been to the Galicia region of Spain. Despite being at essentially the same latitude of Barcelona, the south shore of the Bay of Biscay is very remote. La Coruna, Galicia's largest city, is pretty charming itself, but the major attraction is nearby Santiago de Compostela. The Cathedral there is considered the "Shrine of Saint James" and is the destination of "The Way of St. James," one of the most well known Catholic pilgrimage routes since the 9th Century. The Old Town was designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1985. I suspect after this cruise we won't go anywhere that doesn't have the UNESCO designation. We are spoiled.

Some people walk as far as 500 miles from Leon, Spain. You may recall that actor Martin Sheen and his son Emilio Estevez collaborated on a film recently on their experience of making a version of the pilgrimage. My friend, Richard, took one such route some years ago and plans to go again. Some walk lesser distances than from Leon, such as from Lisbon some 375 miles, others less. We took the train. The low cost less than 50 mile ride from La Coruna took just over 35 minutes. The 10 minute walk from the lovely railway station to the Cathedral was pleasant but uphill. We passed a number of scallop shell bearing pilgrims completing their journey on foot. All we met on the train were college kids and elderly locals, one of whom practiced her English on us to announce that next month she was finally going to travel to Las Vegas, another kind of pilgrimage I suppose. Unlike to Las Vegas, the sea shell is a traditional symbol of the Way of St. James and is said to have originated by the souvenirs of those who after visiting Santiago de Compostela continue on to the sea. At any rate, we noticed scallop shell inlays in the walkways not only in Santiago de Compostela but other places along the long and varied pilgrimage routes. 

The very gilded ornate Cathedral interior was a worthy goal for the tourist as well as the pilgrim. But I came to see the Botafumeiro, one of the largest incense burners in the world. The censer weighs 176 pounds and is over five feet high. Essentially a gonzo room deodorant--lots of sweaty pilgrims arrive each day--the Botafumeiro is brought out from the nearby museum only on special occasions. Such occasions occur when a bunch of pilgrims who have met each other at the rest stops along the way chip in to make the $300 required. But when the Botafumeiro is brought out, it is a sight to see. Suspended from an elaborate 7 story high rope and pulley system, the charcoal smoking monster reaches 80 degrees from the vertical and passes less than 20 inches above the floor of the cathedral at over 70 miles per hour. We didn't see the burner in action, but I enjoyed analyzing the suspension system and watching the increasing crowd of tourists who seemed to consist mostly of tour group participants. There were very few actual pilgrims.  

We enjoyed the very green rural Galicia countryside, as best one can at 110 mph from a speeding train, on the short ride back to the ship. Before sailing we explored the town of La Coruna. Despite its being one of the busiest ports in Spain, the downtown has some appeal. A wide waterfront is lined with characteristic window clad apartment buildings, apparently a local real estate attraction when steel framed structures replaced stone construction for high rise buildings allowing for much more glass. We swung by the imposing town hall and got back to Silver Whisper in time to enjoy the very dark chocolate flourless chocolate cake prepared for my dairy free dietary needs. (I tell them that chocolate is required, as well.) We paged the butler who brought us some decaf to enjoy on our suite's balcony as Barbara studied up for tomorrow's little known port of Gijon. But the day after stop at Bilbao is where I was especially looking forward to.